May also apply to similar year Seville's and Deville's
The rear speakers and amps of the Bose sound system in the 1997 Seville are of pretty good quality. However, if you insist on having the best, or if one or more of the rear speakers or amps are damaged, this guide will help aid you in replacing them. Listed below are the steps required to accomplish the task. Text inrelate specifically to my own installation.
If your system is operating normally, and you are thinking of replacing the rear speakers and amps with locally purchased medium-quality equipment, don't bother. The Bose speakers and amps will likely sound just as good or better. You will only hear an improvement if you buy top-of-the-line speakers and amps, which usually means ordering them.
The BasicsEquipment you will likely need:
- Socket Set
- Drill and Drill Bits
- Needle-nose Pliers
- Wiring Tools (strippers, crimpers, etc)
In order to replace the speakers and amps, you will need to remove the trunk top-front panel (the panel covering the top and front of the trunk), the rear seat bottom, the rear seat back, and the rear deck cover. You may need to remove additional parts depending on where you mount the new amp.
Trunk Top-Front Panel
To remove this panel, unscrew the 4 long plastic push-nuts on the top of the trunk (no tool required). Remove the panel. Once removed, you will be able to see the amps and bottom of the speakers, as well as the plastic panel that rests between the rear seat and the trunk that has numerous electronics modules mounted to it.
Rear Seat Bottom
The front of the rear seat bottom has a latch holding it on each side. The latch simply pops in and out like a snap. Grap the seat near the latch and give a quick firm upward pull to free the seat bottom on each side. Carefully pull out the seat bottom, making sure not to snag anything that might be under it (aftermarket components may be placed or mounted under the seat).
Rear Seat Back
Remove (or loosen) the 2 seat belt buckle retaining nuts. (tip: note the orientation of the seat belt buckle brackets so that you can make sure they are positioned correctly when re-installing the seat back). It is not necessary to completely remove the nuts as the seat back (NOT seat belt) brackets are open on the end and can slide out after the nuts are loosened. However, removing the nuts may make your job a little easier. Now, from the trunk, remove the two small nuts with large washers at the top corner of each side. You should now be able to remove the seat back.
Rear Deck Cover
With the seat back out of the way, you can now easily work with the rear deck cover. Remove the three plastic retaining plugs. You can pry them out using needle-nose pliers. Now slide the rear deck cover forward and out.
Simply unplug the 4-conductor plug near the speaker and pop the whole speaker/amp assembly up and out of the plastic retaining clips. Make sure to remove the plastic retaining clips as well.
New Speaker Install
It's not a bad idea to have some kind of gasket or seal between the speaker and the rear deck. You can probably salvage the seal off of the old speakers. Since the old speakers used a special frame with plastic retaining clips, you will need to mark and drill screw holes for the new speakers. Marking and drilling from the top won't be easy due to interference from the rear glass, so hold the speaker up in the trunk as if you were going to rear-mount them in order to mark the holes. Then drill them from the bottom. Now just drop your new speakers in from the top and secure.
New Amp Install
There are many places you may consider mounting the new amp. Whatever place you pick, make sure that the amp has sufficient cooling and be careful when drilling holes. There are alot of expensive electronic modules and other obstacles to watch out for.
The wiring, to the best of my knowledge, is as follows:
Each side has both an orange switched power wire and a black ground wire. Each side also has two other wires which are low-level pre-amp outputs from the head unit.
|Right Side||Left Side|
|Negative||Black||Brown w/ Stripe|
Noise Testing and Correction
Before you put everything back together, it is advisable to run some noise testing. Once you have the new system hooked up, take your car outside, start it and let it idle, have the radio on at low volume, and listen for electrical noise from the engine or other electric systems. Try reving the engine, turning the head lights on, adjusting the dimmer, etc. If the noise levels are unacceptable, make sure you have a good ground. If you know the ground is good, try purchasing and installing a ground loop isolator (tip: look at how the ground loop isolator connects into the wiring while at the store -- you may also need to buy couplers). You can also try a noise filter on the power line if all else fails. You can usually buy these items at places that specialize in car audio, or at Radio Shack if there are no car audio professionals in your town.
|Last Updated 9/28/2005 by Scott Arnold|